Scutari, Albania 1914

Eve of the Great War

Pat.Somerville.troopship_1914.Patrick_Nicholas-subalterns
Lieut.’Pat’ Somerville back row middle

February 1914, British subalterns on a troopship bound for Malta and then to Scutari to take part in the international boundary commission’s mission in newly independent Albania. So much for bringing peace and order, all the major European powers involved would be at war with each other 6 months later – except Italy which waited till 1915.

Albania_Scutari_street.1914.Somerville
Scutari 1914

Albania had recently freed itself from The Ottoman Empire and was possibly the most backward country in Europe. The people wore colourful very Turkish costumes which appealed to the amateur photographer, my grandfather, ‘Pat’ Somerville, a subaltern in the Royal Warwickshire Regiment whose photos these are.

Albania.British_officers.1914.Scutari
British officers in Scutari heading for an unidentified legation.

There seems to have been a busy social life amongst the various nationalities involved in the mission. Here Somerville has been invited to a tennis party with an Italian group.

Albania_international_group.1914.Somerville
Anyone for tennis? Italian group in Scutari

The British had a job to do but quite what it involved is anybody’s guess

Albania_donkeys.1914.Somerville
a job worth doing?

 

But it was not all work and no play. Here Lieut. Somerville seems to have been invited by the Albanian military to a local wine-tasting

Scutari_wine-tasting.1914.Somerville
Albanian wine-tasting? What is happening behind? A lynching perhaps?

The country around Scutari (modern Shkoder) is wild and rugged. Mes Bridge outside Scutari looks pretty much the same now as it did then.

Mes.Scutari.Albania_1914.Somerville
Mes Bridge near Scutari in 1914

In 1971 a friend and I passed close by here just over the Montenegro mountains in what was then Yugoslavia. The roads were so bad  that we smashed the car, a 1957 Wolseley, in a puddle that turned out to be a pit about 40cm deep and had to undergo repairs in one of the wildest places I have ever seen in Europe. We left Andrijevice in rattling bad shape, suspecting that the pit had been dug by the mechanic – it was just outside his garage.

Wolseley.Andrijevice.Jugoslavia.1971.Patrick_Nicholas
broken down Wolseley near Albanian border 1971

Transport in 1914 seems to have been more gracious.

Albania.Royal_Warwicks.2_officers.Albanian.1914.Somerville
rather low-spirited Albania coachman – call that a tip?

Somerville indulges in some pistol practice in the hills with his Webley and Scott service revolver.

Albania_pistol_practice.1914.Pat.Somerville
Somerville takes pot shots

Six months later he would be shooting in earnest near Ypres.

To be continued.

 

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s